After three weeks bashing up and down hills I can actually say I feel fitter! Had a chat with a German pilgrim in Carrales where I landed up today, his verdict , toughest of the Caminos. I have found it tough but the last few days have got up the hills without having to stop!
So just as fitness strikes am having four days off, going to be in Gijon for two days then bus to Oviedo for two days . Oviedo is quite a way inland and I shall bus there then back to the coast to continue the Camino del Norte. If I was insane would do the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo. It is much shorter so that is a temptation… nah!!!
Todays walk, left Ribadesalla at 7 am, raining of course and did on and off for the next 17 ks. Road walking most of the day and it was a tiny verge. Lots of trucks so hard going. Got drenched going over the river in Ribadesalla, car went passed and hit a puddle, had the red hobbit cape on but still got wet hair as a solid wall of water hit me….ugh
Some lovely sea views, walking parallel about 2 ks away. The surf looked useable. Arrived at Carrales just before 12, had stopped three times so not bad time.
Carrales is a dot on the map but has this very chi chi hotel called El Babu. Pub next door so went and had lunch, 13 e and good solid food. Bean soup, casseroled chicken, chips of course and creme caramel plus water and wine, I was modest! Can tell when the food is good, all the local tradesman come and eat (and drink).
Booked in, very nice, big room, bath!! Could stay here for a time! Alas fully booked!
Hotel Jardins de Eugenie turned into a disaster as the grumpy male owner just snarled at me in Spanish everytime I asked him about anything. E.G can I get out at 7 am ? <#£%<£ was his reply. I had a terrible nights sleep wondering if I would be able to get out. Of course he was there, glowering behind his trendy desk which had no room to put anything down…Oddly he managed to ask me to input my bank code in English! We did not exchange farewells!
Luck was with me as after him and my drenching and the rain I was a bit glum but there was a open coffee shop just ten minutes out of town. Heaven , coffee and a big wedge of orange cake!!!
Rained heavily on and off all morning, I can become a red hobbit in no time flat!
So adventure by bus next few days..
1 Poor wee puppy, think he had a injured leg.
2. Ancient food storehouses, different in style to Galicia
3. NZ cabbage tree
4. Laden apple tree, in cider country, called Sideria here