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Have made myself terribly unpopular with the travel agent as I demanded some changes and I was not paying for them…
I mooched about Berceto for three days and two nights enough..

Set out yesterday for Montelungo and think I spent the night in a gothic movie: mad old man and even madder daughter.   Montelungo is purgatory…nothing there but a church, the Adams family, a farrier and no internet.

No internet today either in Pontremoli, except in a cafe, so I am drinking wine and using their internet and it is bloody cold.

Came down 800m in altitude this morning. On the road, not busy thank heavens.  Some lovely mountain scenery but my knees protested a bit…

Got lost getting into Pontremoli. Eventually found the B&B, another dreary one about one km out in the country.

So I decided that I would eat at lunchtime… found a neat restaurant “Da Busse”.  Lots of yummy nibbly things full of veggies and a pancake with herbs, water, one glass plonk. Cost: 20e.

However nice couple there, she British, him German. Of course the via Francigena is German!  Well, damn me, poor old Archbishop Sigric in 1100AD walking from Canterbury… Nah, foolish Margaret, it was Frankish knights in 800AD.

Another German in same restaurant…knew everything…silly me…he walked from Germany..

The flashing? Well, sitting have breakfast, mean and poor this morning, I looked up to see Mine decrepit Host open up his pants and flash a poor wee thing at me.  I never registered till later what had happened, just went on eating my breakfast.

Gosh I will be glad to be out of bandit and banjo country