Pig's Ear Park and Other Adventures

Grand larceny

The landlord at the hotel in Ansaio was not obliging about breakfast at 7.30 and I decided I was not going to hang around till 8 so got myself organised, fresh little cask of wine in the bag, plus, bikkies, muesli bars(joan, see i took note), this is the bag that travels along without me, packed myself up for the day and set off… On my way out of the hotel, i thought, “nice, the owner has put out a bag of rolls for me”. wrong, i realised as I saw similar bags attached to local doors. however the rolls were put to good use and the police never got me, serve him right for not even making me a cup of coffee…
Gray and nasty for the start, had merino on from stem to stern, and actually wore my jumper plus t shirt plus light over top thing until lunchtime…
only got lost once on the way out and had an interesting time with a grass track that petered out by someones house, I jumped over their fence onto the road and hey presto there was a golden arrow, well a scruffy orange painted one denoting that was the way…carried on.
About 10 pm found a cafe, first one i had seen, dived in to have a cup of coffee, and lo and behold in walked another woman obviously a fellow traveller…cynta is American and lives in texas, way out near New Mexico, and is 55 with Lyme disease, she still walks s fast as me which is not very fast. we had coffee and one of the stolen rolls and walked together all day..and will together tomorrw to coimbra, well we may get a bus for the last part of it.
we stopped in Rabacal for lunch, pork rice and chips, well not much else on offer,a ctually it was quite tasty. Set off, went the wrong way, about five ks worth and cadged a lift back to the lunch place with a young woman and her gran. decided we may hitch a ride as we had already walked about 15 ks, no luck, as cynta said,”what do they think, we have guns hidden in our wrinkles” She is twenty foot tall so we make an odd looking pair i would not have picked us up either…
we walked and walked, pleasant countryside , not too much upsy downsey, as i hate upsey very much….lots of flowers and all the local houses have masses of roses blooming, yummy.
Finally arrived at Condexia de nova, tile capital of Portugal. The hotel is positively splendid, but never got here till 6.45 pm and leave again at 8.30 so not much time to luxuriate…
booze is extra here, so got out my little one litre, two dollar cask of rose and went aaah…t would like this place….
so, thirty plus ks today and I am still alive, lovely to have company for a day, probably got lost as we were gassing…
coimbra tomorrow and a day off the next day…


  1. Shirley Anderson

    May 9, 2014 at 6:21 pm

    Was a bit alarmed at the cask of wine directly after the problem with getting breakfast for an early morning start- what in Portugal they drink wine for breakfast or is this a Margaret refinement?? But no, still interested in how the bag travels on without you? Does it get sent by bus or what, and by whom?
    Glad you found a congenial companion for part of your way, I’m sure the miles go quicker when they are shared. Still haven’t found a useful map to show where your trail is winding, is there a web site you or anyone else reading can recommend?
    Loving the commentary, I can really see some of those places and people. Looking forward to seeing photos in due course.
    Shirley XO

  2. i think if you just google, say coimbra it should come up…google Astoria hotel, looks great but a dump….with a John Cleese on the desk. No , wine gets packed into travelling bag with the eight pairs of socks , millions of knickers etc which never get worn as I now seem as usual, to just use what is on top. wash it now and again.actually hung my socks and knickers off my pack to dry one day. plus I can now pee with a pack on…
    bag gets collected by some mysterious soul. i always put the wine in a dry sack in a plastic bag, not sure why it is called a dry sack as it supposedly keeps dry things dry and wet things from making other things 2 bucks for a litre of wine, good quaffing stuff…
    coimbra is pretty, day off here tomorrow….

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